Impressions of Prague

I just made my first visit to Prague in almost 20 years, a convenient weekend hop from London to visit a friend living and working there. I last saw the city as an over excited twenty year old, on a trip which began in Prague and took me on meandering train journeys through the newly formed Czech and Slovak republics. Back then, the country (and indeed most of the Eastern bloc) had only recently been liberated from the grip of Communism, and had emerged blinking and somewhat dazed into a brand new shiny Capitalist world. Though picturesque, it was drab and grey, as of course were most of the countries which had been behind the Iron Curtain having the life sucked out of them for so long. Back then the people walked with heads down, speaking quietly to one another, avoiding eye contact. There were few advertising hoardings, no international brands to speak of, and not many tourists, though the famous Charles Bridge was full enough, the majority of pedestrians could have been local.

This trip was of course quite different. I had expected a significant change - after all 20 years is a long time for a country to reinvent itself, or at least to shed its inhibitions and present a more confident face to the world. The signs were all there – brands everywhere (even the American upmarket beauty store Sephora which is absent from the UK), and all the rest of the high street imports – Starbucks, Marks and Spencers etc. Tourism is clearly booming – there were hordes of people on the Charles Bridge, stalls and shops selling tourist tat everywhere and “authentic” (and overpriced) Czech eateries lining the streets. But, like Mumbai, all this was accompanied by the subtle signs of a past which hasn’t quite been shaken off (though of course these signs are far less subtle in Mumbai’s case). The airport was a little bit dingy, and during the journey from the airport you’re not quite sure whether you’re in an up and coming, modern city or whether you’re in a “second tier” town which looks fairly soulless. It definitely felt like an “emerging market” – a country which hasn’t quite “got there” as compared to its Western European counterparts and still dealing with a few of its historical demons. Yet at the same time, you can order (amazing) sushi online, service in restaurants (at least the better ones) is outstanding, local taxis are fast and efficient and cars stop at pedestrian crossings (these are all things which amaze me as a long term resident of India).

The locals apparently are obsessed with brands and bling, a phenomenon which has also gripped India post liberalization. Its not exactly hard to work it out – any country which has been deprived of “luxuries”, whether by Communist rule or post colonial introspection is bound to want to embrace them. And both India and the Czech Republic no doubt both contain their fair share of poverty – in the absence of state welfare systems or affordable insurance systems, people need to show others that they’ve arrived, and to differentiate themselves from the needy with the badges of wealth, symbols which most bragging averse Brits would deride. Alongside its cutesy gothic castles and sweet higgledy piggledy multicoloured buildings, Prague is indeed a city of bling, and of labels, of flashy nightclubs and restaurants and expensive cars and furs. Its also a city of drinkers, and maybe this is an inheritance from its Soviet past – there seemed to be people drunk everywhere in public, even in the mornings, which was shocking to me, accustomed as I am to India where people rarely exhibit public displays of drunkenness, except on certain festivals and holidays when even then its curbed.

The local drinkers were accompanied or perhaps encouraged by groups of young British men on stag parties. There were two groups of stags on the Easyjet flight from London Gatwick to Prague, already clearly the worse for wear, and we saw another group in the gorgeous Stare Mesto (central square), all wearing shocking pink miniskirts and leopardskin crop tops. Apparently Prague is now the desintation of choice for the young groom-to-be and his best mates, and its not hard to figure out why – the beer is cheap, the pound is still fairly strong vs the Czech crown, and there’s a lively prostitute and red light industry. The city is only a 90 minute hop from London, so you can pop over for a quick weekend of thowing your inhibitions to the wind and embarrassing your nation by rolling around semi clad in the town square, and be back in the office suited and booted on Monday morning.

Overall, I loved Prague as much as I did twenty years ago. Back then I did a couple of fairly adventurous trips through Eastern Europe, hitchhiking and taking trains through the Czech and Slovak republics, Hungary, Slovenia and Serbia. I loved the fact that these countries weren’t polished or perfect, that though filled with attractive sights they also had a grittier undertone. That undercurrent still exists in Prague, and I find that appealing, given my aversion for bland countries (Singapore, Dubai and most of the US spring to mind). I do wish the British stag parties would give the Czechs a break though.